Virtues of the cape

Pioneering Australian winery offers some of the best selection.

In the photograph that came with Cameron Murphy’s biography, he looked no older than 35. In person, he did not appear to be that much older either. “Must be the wine,” he jested.

Murphy, 48, was in Kuala Lumpur recently to share the finer intricacies of Cape Mentelle as well as elaborate on how the Estate has come to be one of the most celebrated winemakers in the region.

After various wine industry management roles in Australia and Britain, Murphy joined the Moet Hennessy Group in 2005, and later, took on the role of Business Development Manager for Moet Estates & Wines portfolio in 2008. He became Cape Mentelle’s Estate Director in 2014, and is now responsible for the Estate’s overall business.

“Cape Mentelle is one of the pioneering wineries in Australia and produces exceptional wines. It attracted attention when it won the prestigious Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy twice, and Cape Mentelle’s Cabernet Savignon was elevated from the status of ‘Excellent’ to ‘Outstanding in 2014 in the Langton’s Classification of Australian Wines,” explained Murphy.

One of the first Cape Mentelle wines Murphy ever tasted was the Cabernet Merlot when he was in his 20s.

“Having spent 14 months in very good oak barrel – 70% cabernet, and perhaps about 1% shiraz, and the rest merlot – it had a lovely, gentle mouthfeel. The Cabernet Merlot is (today) the most popular red from the Estate,” he enthused.

During an intimate media luncheon at Yen in W Kuala Lumpur, prepared by Yen’s executive Chinese chef Tan Kim Weng, the Cabernet Merlot 2016 was paired with Slow Braised Abalone with Shrimp Sauce and Sea Cucumber. It was an excellent partner for the seafood as it complemented the subtle flavours of the dish, proving that red wines don’t always have to go with red meat.

 

For starters, the Three Hot Combination Platter was served with the Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2017, which Murphy described as his personal favourite, especially when accompanied by fresh oysters. Refreshing, slightly acidic with fruity notes of apricot, the Semillon is said to go especially well with salty food.

The sweet notes of ripe fruits and creaminess apparent in the Chardonnay 2017 went well with the creamy taste of the Baked Cod Fish with Teow Chew Black Olive and Maitake Mushroom.

Another seafood dish, Hokkaido Scallop with Nepalese Rock Rice, Organic Quinoa and Crispy Rice, offered a lovely play of textures and was paired with another red, Shiraz 2016. The contrast can be highly complementary, and the beautiful balance gives the spicy Shiraz elegance and character, said Murphy.

The highlight was the Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, showcased together with Pan Fried Lamb Cutlet, Mongolian Sauce and Chinese Yam Cake. Featured in the list of Top 100 Australian wines, the Cabernet Savignon is soft and harmonious.

The evening ended on an interesting note; we were served Charcoal Sesame Ball with Salted Egg Yolk Custard which was crispy on the outside but revealed a gooey, sweet, salty core.

“Cape Mentelle comes from a very close-knit community and I’m proud to be part of its creation. After years of getting to know Margeret River wines, I feel I’m just scratching the surface as there’s so much potential and the best is yet to come,” concluded Murphy.

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